The New Brogue

Of all the shoes I own (and I own a lot!) my favorite are what we Europeans call the Brogue shoe (in America they are called wingtips).

This style of low-heeled shoe (sometimes a boot) have leather uppers (see chart below) with decorative perforations called  "brogueing” and serration.  To my mind they are the most versatile shoes ever made.
With a suit they complete the outfit in a sophisticated elegant way.
With denim they evoke a sense of 1950’s coolness and with shorts and no socks (or loafer socks) they transform the outfit into “casual comfort”, a look you can take from poolside to cocktails…

This type of shoe first appeared in Scotland and Ireland. The perforations were designed to allow water to drain from them after crossing streams or bogs.  (Personally, I hate wet socks so I would have had to find a way around those bodies of water.  

I have amassed quite a collection of these shoes in different styles and colors (there are multiple variations to the brogueing- I won’t bore you with the details...if you are interested you should email me for more specifics).

  

Recently, I have been surprised by some new variations of this classic; For example, these two which were featured in GQ’s street style section (Shot in Paris). As I just got a new pair from Tsubo seeing these made me think this could signal a new trend…

I can never get enough of these kind of shoes, The pair I just got as I said are from Tsubo (a progressive, design-driven company founded in 1997 that makes shoes with a unique style and an ergonomic design.)  They are black brogues with a grey leather strap that hugs the shoe. They also come in a brown cognac color and are unmistakably cool looking, sporty, witty and an affordable $148 at www.tsubo.com. What is most impressive about them, is that they are as comfortable as a sneaker due to the sole technology that Tsubo is so known for.

To get a classic shoe that will last your life time and even longer choose a shoemaker that uses quality leather and makes shoes mostly by hand.  I’m particularly partial to Church’s (not easy to find in the US unless you live in New York where they have a shop on Madison Avenue).

They have been around since 1873 in Northampton (not far from London UK) where they have been tanning leather for the footwear industry since the Middle Ages. They are pricey (they run about $600, but are no doubt top of the line. I like the “Grafton” but they come in other styles as well in both leather and rubber soles.

 Crodovan leather brogues made by Alden are also a fantastic investment (and yes they too are pricey, $605 at www.aldenshop.com ) From experience I can tell you that the shoes may outlive the person buying it…( I still have and wear my grandfathers shoes..)

If you want to wear Brougues but don’t want to spend a sizable chunk of change on them, there are some great options.

Try a pair from Florsheim by Duckie Brown.  Florsheim has been making shoes in Chicago IL since 1892. A few years ago the company asked rebel designer Duckie Brown to create a collection for them.  This has produced an amazing line of shoes that pay homage to classic Americana while producing a fashion forward look. This particular pair are not only a great Brougue but because of the elastic bands attached to the tongue of the shoe they can be worn lace-less for a more casual look (or as I mentioned with shorts…).  They are $295 at www.zappos.com

They also offer a pair in a canary yellow, for those of you (uhhmm… like me ) who like a bold color from time to time..

For $138 (also at www.zappos.com) you can find this great Brougue made by Cole Haan. The company was started in 1928 by Trafton Cole and Eddie Haan, but is now owned by Nike. What this means to you is that the soles are made with some advanced technology for extra “sneaker like” comfort… (Not quite as good as Tsubo though…)

Lastly, I hope this chart of the parts of a well-made show will help you figure out the  difference between a welt and a vamp…

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Occularium

If you want your outfit to say Attitude! and show sophistication, nothing does it better  than a good pair of sunglasses.

Jack Nicholson got it perfectly when he said “With my sunglasses on, I'm Jack Nicholson. Without them, I'm fat and 60.”

When you put a good pair of sunglasses on, you set yourself apart from the world, making the world softer, less harsh.

You’re protecting yourself from it, and if the eyes are indeed the windows to the soul

then wearing sunglasses closes that window to the world.

Sunglasses can also change a whole outfit making a casual outfit more sophisticated. Making you stand out in a crowd or just simply say: I'm cool…

In 1952 Ray Ban designer Raymond Stegeman came out with the Wayfareres. A model of sunglasses so successful that over 50 years

later it is still one of the best selling accessories for men (rivaled only by the Aviators).

This model is so classic and so unmistakably American that it has been copied, changed and adapted by almost every accessory company in the world (Even for women, remember Audrey Hepburn wearing sunglasses in the 1961 film Breakfast at Tiffany's? well, they might look like rayban’s but those are actually made by Persol..)

The latest model from Ray-Ban are the Wayfarer Ultra Limited Edition.

A reproduction of the model launched in 1952. Like the original, the Wayfarer Ultra is made of black acetate (this time with a unique serial number stamped inside the temple). On the outside, the Ray-Ban logo and 1952 are engraved in 18k gold.

Apart from being the coolest sunglasses out there right now, what makes these a great buy are the P3PLUS lenses; they offer a very

high quality polarization with enhanced color definition and an anti-reflective and hydro-oleophobic coating for strong protection and high resistance.

If you shop diligently you can find them for as little as $280.

By the way, if you are fearful that you will "blend in" too much because of the popularity of these glasses, no worries:

the white gold accents will set you apart for sure!

If you want sunglasses that are a modern version of a classic

look, a relatively new company called Barton Perriera (www.bartonperreira.com) is selling spectacular choices, redefining elegance and style.

Their best offering (but not the only great one) is “The Albert Maysles,” named after the filmmaker of "Grey Gardens" and the man  Jean-Luc Godard called “the best American cameraman,”

Turns out that he is not just super talented (…sigh of jealousy) but he also has a signature look! (something one should always strive for). His look is artistic and literary; in his case this look is achieved with spectacles from the 60s. An item he always wears (both as reading glasses and

sunglasses)

These fantastic specs have been modernized and streamlined to fit any outfit but they work best with a  casual look..

Luckily for us, Barton Perriera has taken these and replicated them

exclusively for Barney’s New York. $350-$365 (www.barneys.com)

The result: amazing sunglasses and readers (get a reader and change the lenses for your regular everyday prescription if you have one).

Here some other options from Barton Perriera:

Finally a fantastic company that makes very unique sunglasses is "Anne and Valentine."  Opened in 1981 in Toulouse, in the south of France, the company  creates sunglasses (and regular frames) that are fun and quirky without being bizarre or outrageous.  They are just different enough to make you stand out. As always it’s all in the details.

The glasses have a sense of style and a certain French chic that is very hard to describe.

 These particular ones I got at ‘Invision optometry’ in San Francisco a while ago; they are just the right amount of style and flair. In a sea of suits, putting these on will immediately make you stand out!

Look for your local retailer at www.anneetvalentin.com

Tie Bar

If you wear a tie often, you know that that they face many‘hazards’: soup, sauce, dressing,  low candles on a table or buffet, just to name a few.

You also know that every time you stand up to shake someone’s hand you have to ‘smooth’ it into your jacket or it will “flap” around. And of course the ever irritating pick-a-boo game that the skinny part of the tie plays with you.

The solution is as old as the tie wearing fashion itself (late 17^th century). A tie clip, also known as a tie bar or a tie clasp or a tie slide. 
It clips horizontally across the tie and holds the two parts together and to your shirt.  
During the late 1800's men affixed their ties ( known then as a cravat) with a pin or tie stick, a very elegant solution but one the requires puncturing your tie. While I would not recommend puncturing a tie you liked, a knit tie will sustain minimal damage and the tie pin may look great with it.  Also, on a ascot (a wide tie worn for a wedding or a very formal affair) a tie pin is the only way to affix the tie to your shit.

Beginning in the 1930’s tie clips became an important part of dressing up in corporate America and very prominent (still) in the political world.  They became a kind of identity badge. Showing off your company or beliefs. President’s  (up through Clinton and Bush W ) gave them as fancy “campaign buttons”.  

A quick browsing at the latest fashion magazines or runways shows that the tie clip  is “back”!
As we are emerging from a casual decade and embracing well-made, tailored stylized garments, men have become more aware of their appearance, are paying much more attention to details and are using fashion to convey a personal style and personality.

The tie clip is an essential part of that. It puts a finishing touch on an outfit that evokes an era previously thought gone by.

Two questions come up frequently when talking about a tie clip;

1.    should it cover the full length of the tie ( skinny or wide)

2.    where should it be worn?

The truth is that some men like their tie clip to go across the entire tie and some like it to just clasp one side; there are no hard and fast rules to this.

As to how high to wear it, it should be worn halfway between the line of your belt and the end point of your collar.

Also it is important to match hardware, that is, a silver belt buckle should be worn with a silver tie bar and a silver watch etc…

The best tie clips at the moment can be found in wide variety at thetiebar.com. Their products have been featured in countless fashion editorials and magazines. 
At the very affordable price of $15, treat yourself to a selection of tie clips with different styles, finishes, and lengths. I particularly like the ‘silver shot’ in a 1.5 inch and 2 inch and the standard gold one.  Of course ruffling through vintage and antique shops  can also yield some great finds...

Paul Smith stores often offer some vintage pieces, costing usually around $45.

And if you want splurge, Tiffany’s offers a beautifully marked tie clip in sterling silver called 183 for $85. Just be sure to wear this one with standard silk or woven ties because if the tie is too thick it will stretch the clip.

I'll end with some verses from T.S Eliot’s “Love Song of J Alfred Prufrock” as the tie pin mentioned there evokes a certain style and confidence that i like…
 

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T.S. Eliot (1888–1965).  Prufrock and Other Observations.  1917.

1. The Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock

S’io credesse che mia risposta fosse

A persona che mai tornasse al mondo,

Questa fiamma staria senza piu scosse.

Ma perciocche giammai di questo fondo

Non torno vivo alcun, s’i’odo il vero,

Senza tema d’infamia ti rispondo.

LET us go then, you and I,

When the evening is spread out against the sky

Like a patient etherised upon a table;

Let us go, through certain half-deserted streets,

The muttering retreats

Of restless nights in one-night cheap hotels

And sawdust restaurants with oyster-shells:

Streets that follow like a tedious argument

Of insidious intent

To lead you to an overwhelming question …

Oh, do not ask, “What is it?”

Let us go and make our visit.

In the room the women come and go

Talking of Michelangelo…

…And indeed there will be time

To wonder, “Do I dare?” and, “Do I dare?”

Time to turn back and descend the stair,

With a bald spot in the middle of my hair—

[They will say: “How his hair is growing thin!”]

My morning coat, my collar mounting firmly to the chin,

My necktie rich and modest, but asserted by a simple pin—

[They will say: “But how his arms and legs are thin!”]

Do I dare

Disturb the universe?

In a minute there is time

For decisions and revisions which a minute will reverse….

Sock it to me....

Socks are very important! This may come as a surprise to some, but the comfort of your feet can make a huge difference in how you feel. An uncomfortable sock will irritate you while a good sock will make your feet feel cozy in your shoes all day long.

While comfort is paramount, socks are not only about comfort.  They send a message to others about you. Imagine sitting down and crossing your leg. Some of your sock will show (or your ankle if you go sockless) especially these days when pants and suits are cropped a little shorter. What would you like your sock to say about you? “I’m elegant” or “I’m confidant” or ‘I’m witty’ or “Screw you all” ?  I promise you that a “stand out” sock will give you “great/cool /wow” looks and comments.

I use to get frustrated by the sock choices at the department stores. I tried countless brands of socks! Some of them lost their elasticity after a few washes, some lost their softness; others wore out at the heel too soon. Oh, and of course so many of them irritated my toes at the seem of the sock. It also not easy to find a sock that fits and that actually comes in sizes...After much trial and error, I now know which socks work best, feel the most comfortable for the longest time and give me my money's worth. Just for you, here is the rundown of my findings.

A few suggestions:

Find a sock that has hand linked toes: This is a traditional method of stitching the toe seam, giving a completely smooth finish and providing unrivaled comfort.

Look for reinforcements: The most pressure in shoes is at the heel and toe. So look for socks that tell you that they weave the yarn stronger or are woven into multiple layers at the heel and toe.

Find a yarn that is comfortable to you, ( and stay away from nylon, unless the ratio of natural fiber to soft nylon is 80/20 or better). Most people find cotton the most comfortable but you may prefer wool, cashmere or even linen in the summer. Linen is stronger than cotton, not as warm, and super breathable during the hot summer months.  It is also a great choice if you need dress socks but your feet tend to get very hot and sweaty…

As for color, while it is convention to match your sock to your pants (NOT YOUR SHOE, THAT WILL MAKE YOU LOOK SHORTER AND STUBBIER)

Try wearing something colorful, perhaps with color accents from your shirt, tie or suit lining? Or maybe a pattern… I personally like skulls. Especially on days when I know I will be sitting at many annoying meetings…

Buy socks that are colorfast. Dyes have a tendency to fade. Only high quality socks offer a dye process that makes them not bleed and survive the daily strains.

One brand that I particularly love is Pantherealla (a British company that has made men’s and women’s socks since 1937).  Their socks come in a variety of materials (cotton, wool, silk, cashmere and sea island cotton; the latter feels as delicate as cashmere but can be washed in the same way as regular cotton) as well as specific sizes (not the ubiquitous ‘ one size fits most’) and for my women readers they also offer knee high socks.  Their price ranges from about $20 a pair to $60. BUT. If you shop diligently you can find them for less. I just bought a few pairs for $12 a pair on gilt.com.  You can find them at Nordstrom, Saks fifth Ave and www.onthefly.com.

Undoubtedly, Corgi (another British company—this one provides socks for the British monarchs) makes some of the best socks for men and for women.  They are currently being sold at  jcrew.com for $32 a pair. Not cheap, but they are amazingly comfortable and well made and will last and last.

 

Thomas Pink (who has a fantastic store in San Francisco) also sells great sturdy socks that come in different sizes and materials. Their price range can go to as low as $10 on sale up to $40 a pair.

Finally, for cold days or for hiking--Marled Socks: Camp Socks (made in the US by the last remaining sock mill )-are currently 2 pairs for $20 at J.Crew. get them in red and navy. Wearing them with a loafer says: “ I’m cool and I don’t care about conventions” It is also very old school…

Last words:

If you hate shopping for socks ( and/or underwear), www.blacksocks.com offers a sock-scription. You can choose which socks and which colors and they will send them to every 2 or 3 or 4 or 6 times a  year ( choose 3 times a year for $89; they will ask you if you would like to renew every 11 months… you can also buy one as a trial.)

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Weatherproof...

Barbour is one of the world’s best outdoor clothing companies. It's one of those companies that actually has a pedigree. It has been creating garments for people who enjoy spending a significant amount of time out of the city since 1894.

Their garments are so good that they have been the providers of outdoor clothing  ( waterproof and protective clothing)  to the Queen of England, the Duke of Edinburgh (her husband) and the Prince of Wales (their son Charles).  Those of you with a keen eye might have spotted their garments in the movie 'The Queen' with helen Mirren. While the movie was screening,  the store in NY could not keep up with the demand for their products.

Their pieces are not only made with incredible attention to details of style and function but they perform flawlessly in all weather from fog to storms to searing heat;  their durability is legendary. I know people who have had their coats for decades.

I got this jacket in waxed cotton ( classic baufort jacket) at their store in NY ( they have web retailers as well) for $449. And not only is it cool, but  it kept me super dry during the last rain storm.  And the double zipper allows me to zip it up from the bottom so that I can wear it when i am riding my scooter.  

And btw, if you were wondering, the first waxed cotton products  were impregnated with linseed oil.  This helped the fabric become stronger, more durable, and  weatherproof.  Unfortunately, after a while the fabric took on a yellowish hue, the color of fisherman's clothing ( the early adopters of treated cotton...)

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It all starts with a shoe...

Nothing is as classic yet modern as penny loafer shoe.
This pair from Prada (bought on sale at Nordstrom in San Francisco for $379) is a perfect example. They look great with rolled up denim (make sure you wear a good sock with it) and even better with dress pants or a suit.
While the original loafers ( G.H Bass around 1934) had more of a square toe and an angular shaped cut out on the strap across the saddle, this pair is updated with a slender toe and a crescent shape cut-out. Granted, these are not cheap; you can find great loafers for less (Bass still makes its original and updated versions of Weejuns. But its the details on this pair that makes them an extra good buy.
The sole is made of rubber so you can walk in them all day long comfortably. While a leather sole might be more elegant, after a few hours of walking and standing around,the feet start to hurt. A leather sole transfers the force of each step to the foot; rubber soles absorb most of that impact so you can walk around in them for the whole day without feeling fatigued.

These shoes are especially good for travel. If you are like me, you hate to shelp (Yiddish for haul or carry) multiple pairs of shoes with you for a short jaunt to New York or Los Angeles. I want to be comfortable (especially when walking, looking for the best finds ) but still stylish; with these shoes I can be both.
They are also great at airports! You can slip them off and on for those pesky security checks. Keep Shopping I

Go native

Since 1863, Pendelton woolen mills have been trading and weaving. In 1909 their first jacquard Indian trading blanket rolled off the loom in Oregon and since then, they have been a staple in American homes.
Their patterns and tartans are woven from the very fabric that America is made of, weaving history, enterprise, social responsibility and fashion into their products. This family owned company (6th generation currently at the helm..) is producing innovative, fashion-forward products without sacrificing quality and a "work man" feel.
This cardigan (bought at Opening Ceremony in Los Angeles for $148) is a shawl cardigan (its called Jerome and its a jacquard pattern from the 1920s renamed after the once notorious mining town of Jerome.) It is black wool with a native American pattern weaved into it.
As it is 100% lambswool its very warm and the black background accentuates the pattern, making it at once casual and unique. I wear it with denim, a white shirt and boots.
If you look closely you will see more and more native American patterns out there. The trend of well-crafted Americana fashion that combines a casual easy chic with well made, tailored clothing is embracing the aesthetic of Native Americans as a way to add a certain 'flair'. This is a natural continuum of the trend of local, artisanal fashions that we are in right now... Keep Shopping I